Day 7 - Kokoda Trek - daily journal

Kit (in the hat) our historian and myself at the end of the track







Day 7.
Ua-Ule to Ower's Corner - 5.5 hours (7:00am - 12.30pm)
Pain factor 10 (1 to 10 where 10 is the worst)

I did not sleep all that well, I just could not find a comfortable position as my right knee ached continually.

Up at 5:30AM, wet skins, wet shorts and wet shirt. However I saved dry socks for the last day. I put tape over my toes - just to be sure that I have no feet problems on the last day, as so far my feet have been good with no chaffing or blisters.

Thank goodness that this is the last day, as my knees are feeling it. We got away at 7AM, out of the campsite for a vertical climb, what a heart starter !

Some up and down sections, then the big steep climb up to Imita Ridge. I found this extremely difficult and I am having to keep concentrating on one step at a time. The last 100 metres or so so are the most difficult.

I am exhausted at the top and have taken some effort to get myself up and moving again. The downhill from Imita Ridge is very steep and it now feels like I have pokers in both knees and red hot embers for feet. Some relief and flat surface thru Uberi Village (now abandoned). Then further steep downhill into Goldie River.

This was excruciating.

Boots off and into the river to cross, water up to my thighs, this is so good on my feet and knees.

Once across, boots back on 10-15 minute rest, then up the last climb to Ower's Corner. This is steeper than the climb up to Imita Ridge but a shorter distance and seems to go straight vertical.

I am really struggling and relying on my porter, Henry, to assist. We have all had to stop a few times.

We all stopped as a group one last time before the last section of the climb, and the team let me move from the back to the front. What I didn't realise was that we only had about 50 metres to go to the top - the guys let me reach the end of the trek first !

Tears as I crossed, and tears as as we all congratulated and hugged one another.

I did it - we all did it

This would have to be one of the toughest things I have done, especially over several days. It is more mental than physical, as you will yourself on.

After a BBQ lunch and a couple of beers we jump (crawl) into the bus and head to the war cemetery. This is also very emotional - young Aussies 19, 22, 23 killed in their prime protecting Australia and our lifestyle.

What a journey !

What a great bunch to trek with !

What great porters !

Day 6 - Kokoda Trek - daily journal

Looking back towards Ioribaiwa Ridge from Ua-Ule






Day 6.
Naoro to Ua-Ule - 8.25 hours (6:45am - 3.00pm)
Pain factor 8 (1 to 10 where 10 is the worst)

All up early this morning at about 5AM, as the trekkers next site as well as being noisy in the evening are up extremely early as well.

This suited me as this was to be a long day and I wanted to tape my feet for the first time on the trek. This was only precautionary as I have not had a problem so far with my feet, but as it is a long day, and we are so close.

So we set off on a day that promises to be hot and sticky. Uphill for the first hour or more. We stopped for a time at Ioribaiwa Ridge where Kit gave us the history of the last battle before the Japanese were effectively stopped and were ordered to "advance to to the rear". This position was supposed to be the final holding point for Australia but we were forced to retreat from this ridge to Imita Ridge where the Australian troops were able to hold and force the Japanese to retreat.

As we descended from Ioribaiwa Ridge we went past a track that led to the goldmine. The local population are so pleased that this has been aborted. Further on I could see in the distance the remains of the road that was being built to service the site.

There was lots of up and down sections to our lunch spot of Ioribaiwa Village. I am now finding downhills harder on my knees, all I am thinking about is getting thru Day 6. I am finding this really physically difficult.

The last 2 hours after lunch I found more difficult, both knees are aching, more do going downhill. The pain differs between downhill and uphill, and just gets stronger.

The campsite is beside the creek, so we took advantage and had a great cooling swim, wash, and washed some clothes. This also felt great for my knees, and I stayed in the cool water for some time.

I have thoroughly enjoyed the camaraderie and the trek itself. However my knees are stuffed and what keeps me going is that tomorrow we have about another 6 hours. This will be a tough finish I understand. We climb up Imita Ridge, down to Goldie River and we then finish uphill.


Well the end of the day and one more to go.

Day 5 - Kokoda Trek - daily journal

Having a refreshing break before our lunch stop.







Day 5.
Menari to Naoro - 6.5 hours (7:15am - 1.45pm)
Pain factor 8 (1 to 10 where 10 is the worst)


Physical condition is good. Had a very good night's sleep at Menari. The right knee continues to be a problem, however I desperately want to complete this trek.

Today was a short walk which is prior to the the very long and difficult day tomorrow.

We started at 7:15AM and after a short uphill, down a long very steep descent, and then a long haul to the "saddle". From here we could see the village that we are staying at tonight (Naoro). This is a long and steep downhill to Brown's Creek where we stopped for a long break and a swim.

From here a short walk to our lunch "spot" (Aguro). A good long stop here as we are not in a hurry as this is a short day's walk.

After lunch onto Naoro which had a very long uphill up to the village .

One of our porters is suffering from malaria, so he is really struggling, and unfortunately, this is typical. His backpack is now being carried by another porter who is now carrying two packs.

This was another tough day for my knees. They pain going downhill and they pain going uphill, so without any really flat areas it's a real pain.

Day 5 over with 2 more to go. Day 6 is a long day and Day 7, although a shorter day is also a tough day.

The countryside is beautiful and very varied plant life. This is an experience of a lifetime.

Day 4 - Kokoda Trek - daily journal

Day 4.
Kagi to Menari - 9.5 hours (6:45am - 4.15pm)
Pain factor 8 (1 to 10 where 10 is the worst)

Well the right knee continues to give me grief, and once again my porter has been the difference in me making my way thru the day.

We left Kagi at 6:45AM after a good nights sleep. During the night the wind was so strong and our villa really shook. You could hear the wind as it came across the valley, then ease, then commence again throughout the night.

We started with a short uphill, then thru Kagi village, flat and slight downhill past Kagi airfield. Then for the next hour it was all downhill and very steep after Kagi airport. I was leading strangely enough and so I had the longest rest after we crossed the stream which had a few logs and rope to hang onto (the porters providing assistance). Then it was all uphill to Efogi One where we stopped for a rest and bought bananas and mandarins from the locals. The cost is so cheap about 5 Kina a bunch for the bananas. Once again a lovely tidy village. We had a great view across the valley to Efogi Two and (way) above that Mission Hill and further behind and higher Brigade Hill.

So steep downhill into and thru Efogi Two. After we went thru the village, one of the largest outside of Kagi we started the very steep uphill climb to Mission Hill where we stopped and Kit gave us the history of the battle here.

It was then for another hour to Brigade Hill for lunch. This was tough going. There is an excellent View from the top but I was too stuffed to drag the camera out.

After lunch a long (hour or so) downhill starting off slowly, and then the last half hour very steep. We stopped for sometime at the stream at the bottom as it was a hot day. And along with the others wet my shirt, hat, sweat rag, anything I could.

Then a half hour very steep uphill to Menari for our overnight stay. A really lovely village, arriving at about 4:15PM.

Kit and a few others started a softball game with the view of getting some locals kids interested and then giving them the bat and ball. . Only one of the local kids "Junior" joined in. So he ended up owning the equipment.

An hour or so later at the instigation of Phil [the fitness guru] and ex rugby league player (think St George and Norths) the "big boys" (Arie, Phil, & Jeremy), porters and guides commenced a game of touch footy, and unusual as it may seem no-one was injured. The local lads are good, great hand / eye coordination.

Another beautiful warm evening the sun has set just behind a hill at about 5:30PM

Day 3 - Kokoda Trek - daily journal

Photo - spectacular sunset at day's end at Kagi








Day 3.
Templeton's Two to Kagi - 8.0 hours (7:15am - 3.15pm)
Pain factor 8 (1 to 10 where 10 is the worst)

The big issue of the day for me was my right knee. I put the knee guard on and as usual was so grateful for Henry's help up and down where there were long steep steps .

When we started out we walked uphill for an hour (that's not unusual is it?) This was a very steep climb and once again it was raining & very windy. This is the coldest morning so far and I was shivering last night during dinner and also this morning during breakfast. I was, however very warm during the night as I had 2 thermal tops plus the thermal long johns.

We left camp at 7:15AM and got to Templeton's One at about noon, which was our lunch stop. We had the usual lunch stop food of soup (alternate with noodles) and salada crackers with vegemite, peanut butter or cheddar cheese (yes - I know we haven't seen this for years in Oz).

The weather started to clear coming into Templeton's One, however the strong wind and light rain were still around - shivering at once again at our lunch stop.

After lunch we started heading up to Kokoda Pass. ( I must be getting used to the long climbs as I did not make too many comments about the climb). On a clear day apparently there is a beautiful view into Hoi today nothing but cloud. Once we started down the weather conditions improved dramatically. Henry had predicted this as he has been talking with Porters heading north.

This was a long haul into Kagi where we are staying the night. Very steep downhills and a short sharp steep uphill into our site for the night. On our way into the campsite we passed the local school who were just finishing for the day. Local school are from 5 to 15 years. They loved the sweets we handed out. Incredibly, most of the young kids have bush knives which they bring to school to "mow" the grass. These knives are really sharp!

We arrived at Kagi at 3:15PM an early finish for the day which I really am appreciating.

It is now 5:45PM and we have finished dinner. The "chefs" made us cous cous, pumpkin and artichoke vines. All meals have been superb.

Tonight we were able to have our first shower. The water is very cold and all showers were very quick, and how good is it after a shower.

I really need this [right] knee to not get any worse. Apart from the knee all is holding up OK.

Day 2 - Kokoda Trek - daily journal

Day 2 - a long walking day.
Isurava Village to Templeton's Two - 10 hours (7:00AM - 5.00PM)
Pain factor 8 (1 to 10 where 10 is the worst)

Woke up to light rain. All (walking) clothes are wet. So into wet skins, wet shorts, wet shirt, and after much indecision wet sox. In hindsight a good decision, as soon as I had put them on I could feel the water still in the boots squishing around my feet.

First stop was Isurava Battlefield which is about an hour from Isurava Village. This was a longer stop as Kit set the scene and gave us the background and history to the battle that took place here. This is an impressive memorial and site. If it was a clear day we would have been able to see down the valley to Kokoda. The get some perspective of the importance of the battle check this out The vital delaying battle at Isurava.

Ever onward thru a small village where we bought some bananas and passionfruit - beautiful and so tasty.

Then onto Eora Creek. This was a solid hitout with many creek crossings on the way, which of course meant lots of uphill and downhill (down to a creek, and then up after the creek). We arrived at Eora Creek at about 1PM and left about 2. It was very cold at Eora Creek with a strong wind and light rain. We all stood around in our wet gear in the cooking hut, our eating shelter was so cold and windy.

The first hour after lunch was all uphill and this was tough. My right knee started to complain about 2 hours after we had started again from Eora Creek.

The afternoon was rugged all the way with continual rain and mud sticking to our boots which made for very heavy going. Thank goodness for my porter who helped me up and down the really rough areas. Henry is a top bloke!

The falls at Templetons Two are magnificent, no photos of it as it was raining too heavily. It was a great relief to see the campsite, which was about 5 minutes away when we spotted it, whilst crossing another stream.

For the last hour I didn't really care if I stepped in mud to the top of my boots, puddles or whatever.

The long john skins work a treat whether this is psychological or physical I don't really care. The knees are feeling it. Lets see what Day 3 brings

Day 1 - Kokoda Trek - daily journal

The photo is of our first guesthouse at Isurava Village. Yes we did close the door at night.







Day 1.
Kokoda Airport to Isurava Village - 7.5 hours (9:30 - 5.00)
Pain factor 6 (1 to 10 where 10 is the worst)

We spent overnight in Port Moresby, at a minimal star hotel, and perhaps this was preparation for the trek that is to follow. Up at 6am, breakfast at the hotel and a short bus ride to the airport for the flight to Kokoda.

We left Port Moresby at 8:30 for a 35 minute flight in a Twin Otter (small twin engine) to Kokoda Airstrip. a short and scenic flight.

After landing we were introduced to our porters and guides. We then set off at about 9:30. We spent half hour or so at the Kokoda memorial which is a (relatively) short walk from the airport. It was then off to Deniki, which was the originally planned first night stop. This had been changed the prior evening as it was too short a walk and would have made Day 3 very long. We stopped at Hoi for lunch, which was a very beautiful spot. All this in perfect sunshine, not too hot nor humid.

After lunch the climbing started and there were some very steep sections. You cannot prepare for this.

Half an hour after Hoi it started to rain which was pleasant as it cooled us off. We could see and hear the rain approaching. No one bothered with rain jackets or ponchos.

Some steep and slippery sections and all of us had water thru our boots and walked the last few hours with wet feet.

We arrived at Isurava Village at about 5pm, a good solid day and so far my body has been OK. We passed our initial overnight spot of Deniki shortly after our lunch stop.

Thru one of the sections we heard a tree come crashing down, apparently this is a common occurrence.

Kit has taken on the role of "historian" and will be explaining the history and relevant details of the track and most importantly the battles that were fought. His research is excellent and his presentation technique is is full of vigour and emotion (which I knew it would be having worked with Kit for some years). Looking forward to all of Kit's "stories" over the next few days.

There are 33 in the party, and we were all quite surprised at the number of additional (general) porters
11 in the team
11 personal porters
11 guides and general porters

I guess when you carry all the food to be eaten for all three meals, you need this many for support. There are no (dehydrated) ration packs at all.

It is about 5:45PM and still enough light to write by. And now a bit of a yack and laugh over dinner. Spirits are high with all, as we feel that we have started off well.

Here is the itinerary for the trek

ITINERARY
Day 01:
Arrive Port Moresby and transfer to Hotel. Free time to yourself. Expedition briefing with your Australian Guide late afternoon and then off to dinner.
Day 02:
Depart Port Moresby 0700am on Airlines PNG flight to Kokoda. At Kokoda Village you will be introduced to your local trek guide and porter/s, who will accompany you on a brief walking tour of Kokoda township, including the Kokoda museum, and Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel memorial.
We will then head off through the plantations to Hoi and finally Deniki, which overlooks the Kokoda Valley. (3 hours walking).
You will be accompanied on your trek by your Australian and local guide and one or more porters (carriers) who will carry camp food and equipment.
Day 03:
After a billy tea breakfast with fruit and cereals we will start the hike to the Isurava ANZAC war memorial via New Isurava. The memorial was opened by Australian Prime Minister John Howard in August 2002 to commemorate 60 years since the ferocious four day battle was fought there in 1942. After lunch we will continue on to the small village of Alola with great views down the valley. (6 hours walking).
Day 04:
Camp breakfast. Hike from Alola to Templeton's One via Eora Creek and Templeton's Two – long ascents and descents with heaps of gunners pits along the way. Camp lunch. Overnight camping at Templeton's One at the base of Mt Bellamy, the highest pass on the Track. Bush camp. (9 hours walking).
Day 05:
Camp breakfast. Hike from Templeton's One to Kagi via Nadoori. Today you will ascend Mt Bellamy, the highest point of the Kokoda Track. Good views at the Kokoda Gap Lookout. Descend to Kagi village and airstrip via Nadoori where we will see the last Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel. Overnight at our purpose built No Roads guest house. (9 hours walking)
Day 06:
Today you will hike from Kagi to Menari village. During the morning you will climb Brigade Hill and then begin a long steep descent to Menari village which will weary your feet and legs. You will sleep well tonight. Overnight village guest house. (7 hours walking)
Day 07:
Hike from Menari to Naoro village. Relatively easy day. After climbing a steep saddle you will descend and pass through a number of river crossings including Brown River (where we can swim) to Naoro village. Overnight village guest house. (6 hours).
Day 08:
Hike from Naoro to Wa-ule Creek. Climbing through open grasslands you will mount the Maguli Range and take a long steep descent to Ofi Creek and Wa-ule Creek campsite. Overnight camping. Camp dinner. (7 hours walking)
Day 09:
Camp breakfast. Hike from Wa-ule to Ower’s Corner. Short day. There are a number of river crossings and a long steep climb up Imita Ridge. The descent on the other side of the ridge is known as The Golden Stairs which leads down to Goldie River. After wading through the river the Kokoda Track then concludes with a final steep ascent to Owers Corner. You will arrive at Owers Corner in the late morning and will be met by a 4WD vehicle with a picnic lunch and cold drinks that you will share with your guide and porters. You will be driven down the picturesque Sogeri Gorge via the Bomana War Cemetry to Port Moresby and dropped off at your accommodation. Tonight we celebrate our sucess with our Porters and guides poolside, back at the hotel.

The final weekend training session

This was to be the last training walk doing the Spit Bridge to Manly and return, with a group lunch afterward. As it turned out the majority of us had other commitments, and only a small number were able to make it, and of those only two were planning to do the return from Manly to the Spit.

As I was in Canberra for my brother's birthday celebration I could not make the Sunday walk. I did however do a long walk (longer then planned) on Saturday, leaving home on foot at 6:30AM and getting back home at 11AM. I had decided to do the walk around Manly Dam, which in itself appeared on paper to be too short a duration. And this is the reason I walked from Cromer to Allambie Heights (Warringah Aquatic Pool) and then onto the Manly Dam circuit, walking down to the dam completing the circuit back at Allambie Heights, then back to Cromer. So some street walking and some good bushwalking in the Manly Dam reserve.

I also completed 2 walks during the week during the week. The usual 14 Kms on Tuesday, which I did in good time. On the Thursday, I slept in a little so I shortened changed the walk, cutting out a few hills around Naraweena, and adding in the very steep Alexander Street which runs straight up from Pittwater Rd at Collaroy Beach to Collaroy Plateau. So yet another good hit out.

One week to go and now getting excited, but more nervous than excited.

7th Sunday training and another week closer

Well looks like although an old dog, I can learn a new trick, and this week didn't overdo it on the Monday. So did the 14Km walk on Tuesday and completed this in 2hrs 50 mins which knocked over 10 mins off my previous times for the mid week circuit.

To the Gym on Wednesday, concentrating on cardio. Thursday out for another 14Km walk. The days are getting noticeably longer with more early risers about in the early light, as I get nearer to Long Reef headland, but still dark when I set out at about 5AM. Once again a good pace & time, completing the circuit in about 2hrs 45mins.

So overall a week where I did the walks and Gym work that I had planned to.

This weekend was another change to the planned Sunday training as some of the team had afternoon activities planned. The circuit was changed to Cowan-Berowra Waters-Cowan-Jerusalem Bay-Cowan. The Jerusalem Bay leg was optional for those that had other activities in the afternoon. The total distance for the walk is 21.6Kms.

We had 5 starters for this walk, the Cowan to Berowra Waters and return section being a trek we had done on week 3 (13 July). I did find that this time it felt easier although there are some steep climbs, especially the return climb up from Berowra Waters. Another magnificent day, cool morning and clear blue skies.

Turns out I was the only keen and enthusiastic bushwalker (make that sucker) to do the final 5kms into Jerusalem Bay and return is not a difficult walk at all. Total time for the 21.6Kms was 5hrs 30mins. I stopped at Jerusalem Bay to enjoy the view, admiring the three or four cruisers moored in the bay. I was enjoying my lunch, when the weather decided to close in. Dark clouds rolled in, with very strong winds, whereas the morning had been blues skies and light winds. So I decided to head back to Cowan. Luckily, I missed the heavy rain and only received a few spots from the showers. There was a marked drop in temperature with the change in the conditions as I made my way back.

I felt quite OK once I had got home and cooled down so definitely getting a little fitter, and I will find out in 2 weeks if this fitness is enough to enjoy the Kokoda Track. These old knees do feel it at the end of the day, and that is part of life and the aging process.

So looking forward to Kokoda, but also getting a little nervous about how the body will hold up.

6th Sunday in and about Berowra Valley

Well will I ever learn, after last week's walk and feeling pretty well recovered on the Monday morning, I decided that I would do some exercise bike. After 10 mins I felt pretty comfortable, so I set the bike for another 30 mins with some added increase in the intensity setting. Big mistake after cooling down and then a couple of hours later at work, I had stiffened up considerably. This meant that I did not go on my scheduled Tuesday morning long walk. As I was in Melboune for 3 days after that I had to restrict myself to Gym work especially the exercise bike.

This week's walk was to be a repeat of last week's, however after we completed the trek a couple of the guys suggested that we do the walk in reverse, as there was not really any objection, this was agreed to. So we commenced at Mt Kuringai and finished at Hornsby.

And the Trek "trainers" comments on the reverse decision I had planned to repeat yesterday for next week's walk, but the popular opinion is to do it in reverse. So we'll start at Mt Kuring-Gai Station and finish at Hornsby Station. That means we'll dodge going up the cruel hill (the 600 metres asphalt) at the end of Lyrebird Gully, but we will share the undiluted joy of climbing out of Galston Gorge.

We got away at about the usual time of 7:45

Once again we had fine weather, setting off at a cracking pace. Pretty cool to start out, with temperatures (based on the car gauge) at about 6 degrees, although it was a few degrees cooler in the valleys, and there was also a light frost at Crosslands in the shaded areas, which was over an hour's walk from where we started.

After the cold start, the day got quite warm and there were many walkers out enjoying the day as well. This was the warmest walking day so far.

Not sure if this direction is a better way to travel or the original direction we took last week, although I didn't mind not having the last 6oo metre asphalt killer hill at the end. A little more slippery in parts as there had been some rain during the week, and the creek at Galston Gorge was a little higher as well.

My heels took a pounding from a long (just under 2KM's) stretch of steep to very steep downhill fire trails, actually preferred doing this uphill last week.

The finish is a steep 500 metres up very large stone steps, that have been there for many a year, well before the Great North Walk was "tidied up" for the bi-centennial, so yet another way to really finish off at the end of another training walk.

We knocked 15 minutes off last weeks time of 5 hours and 20 minutes

I pulled up really well and felt that I had recovered a few hours after the walk, so am feeling pretty good about this. Still feel the knees, but overall I think they are coping OK.